Fabric is where most of the money in a garment goes, and it is the part hardest to judge from a product photo. A few specifics make it much easier to tell whether something is worth its price.
GSM tells you weight, not quality
GSM means grams per square metre. Around 150 is a light summer tee. Between 200 and 240 is substantial without being heavy, which is where most pieces built to last sit. Above 300 is sweatshirt territory. A high number is not automatically better, but a suspiciously low one on an expensive piece is worth questioning.
Staple length is what you actually feel
Long staple cotton produces a smoother, stronger yarn with fewer loose ends, which is why it pills less and keeps its surface. This is the difference you notice in the hand between two shirts of identical weight. If a brand invested here, they will usually say so.
Combing, and why it matters
Combing removes short fibres before spinning. It costs more and yields less material, so it is skipped on cheaper garments. Combed cotton is the reason a shirt still feels smooth after thirty washes instead of turning fuzzy.
Finishing decides how it ages
Enzyme washing, pre-shrinking and garment dyeing all happen after the piece is made. Pre-shrinking is the one to care about most: without it, a shirt that fit in the shop will not fit after the first hot wash. Anything sold without that step is passing a problem to you.
What to ask before buying
- What is the GSM
- Is the cotton combed, and is it long staple
- Has the garment been pre-shrunk
- What are the flat measurements for my size
Any brand that considered these questions will answer them without hesitation. Silence on all four is its own answer.